There are few weapons that have as much raw history as the battle axe. Axes were in use among farmers, warriors and raiders well before swords became symbols of nobility. In the morning they split wood, and by nightfall they split shields. The two-fold use is what keeps attracting collectors to axes today.
When you're looking for Hand Forged Battle Axes USA, there are likely questions on your mind. What does it take for an axe to be battle ready? Is there any benefit to high carbon steel? What is the difference between a forged axe and a mass-produced? This guide addresses all that in layman's terms, based on the important facts of purchasing quality steel that will last.
What Is a Battle Axe, Exactly?
A battle axe is a bladed weapon, typically of high carbon steel, mounted on a wooden or metal handle. A battle axe is not so much a tool as a weapon, and is counterbalanced for combat, unlike a modern hatchet. The head is thin at the edge and thick at the eye to ensure a fast yet biting swing.
There were two broad categories of battle axes, historically. One handed axes were light enough to carry with a shield. Two handed axes were also known as dane axes and required two hands and drew fire for their power instead of speed. Today, most collector pieces are based on the one handed Viking style, as that's the shape most people envision when they think of "battle axe.
Why Axes Were So Common in the Viking Age
Swords were expensive. The process of making a long, straight, uniform steel sword was quite a bit of trouble, as well as skill, and so swords were a sign of status for a wealthy warrior or chieftain. Axes were different.
It required less steel to make an axe head, and less work. One could be made by a blacksmith in any Norse village and so farmers, sailors and craftsmen carried an axe as a matter of course. The same tool used for splitting firewood turned to weaponry when the time came for the raid. That is one of the reasons that the axe became one of the most famous symbols of the Viking Age, together with the longship.
The Anatomy of a Hand Forged Axe
When buying an axe, it is important to know what constitutes a good quality axe.
The head is the business end and was formed by hammering and heating a single piece of steel. The grains in the forged head can be oriented in the direction of the tool shape for strength, which is superior to a cast or stamped head from a mold.
The cutting edge is the bit. The bit on a bearded axe is longer and projects below the haft, providing you with a longer cutting edge, and more control when using it for finer cuts and carving.
The hole through which the handle goes is called the eye. A well forged eye has no wobble on the haft and will not loosen with repeated use.
The handle is called the haft. Traditional axes are made with either hickory or ash wood because they bend slightly when struck, taking the impact and guarding the wrist.
The poll is the part of the back of the head opposite the bit. In some designs, the poll is flat and can be used as a hammer.
What Makes a Blade "Museum Grade"?
It is a term that is much used and so it is useful to decipher what it should imply.
Not a sheet metal axe and ground into shape, a museum grade axe is hand forged. It is properly heat-treated to toughen the edge without making the spine so stiff that it will crack. The fit and finish should be snug and there should be no space between the head and the haft. A serious maker will also attach a Certificate of Authenticity that ensures no doubt that the piece was handmade and not manufactured abroad.
If a listing does not reference any of that, it is a good idea to inquire before purchasing.
High Carbon Steel vs Stainless Steel: Which Is Better for an Axe?
This is a very common question and the answer is here.
For a battle axe you would want high carbon steel – the traditional smiths would use this for centuries. It's easy to hold, easier to sharpen, and will respond to heat treatment to provide the hardness required for chopping, without becoming brittle.
While stainless steel is resistant to rust, there are drawbacks to that. The majority of stainless alloys are easier to be formed into a soft state and are more difficult to be sharpened to a fine edge. That's not much of a concern with a display piece. If you really want to use this axe, high carbon steel is the winner practically every time. The down side is that high carbon steel will require a light lube layer of oil occasionally to prevent rust, but it's a small cost for a very powerful edge.
How to Tell a Real Hand Forged Axe From a Factory Copy
There are a few distinguishing features to tell the difference between a real forged work and a factory stamped copy.
Examine head first. A hand forged axe may exhibit a small amount of texture and asymmetry in the head due to the process of the hammering; a stamped head will have a smooth, even texture that is almost plastic-like in its uniformity. Also check the weight. The feel of forged steel is solid, dense and not hollow, while the cheaper, cast pieces are light for their size.
Inquire about the heat treatment procedure. An authentic smith will be able to tell you how the piece has been tempered. The typical reseller of mass produced imports will not be able to give you any detail.
Lastly, seek documentation. A Certificate of Authenticity isn't something you can just add to your list of optional extras. It's a testament that someone is behind this piece and that the piece is handmade.
Popular Axe Styles Collectors Look For
Viking Axe – The traditional one handed axe of the Vikings in the 8th to 11th Century. Light, easy to carry and functional enough to be used as a tool.
Bearded Axe (Skeggøx) – Axe with a long lower end having a beard like shape. The added surface area provided the Vikings with greater cutting control, and an opportunity to grab an opponent's shield or weapon during close contact.
Dane Axe – This is a two-handed axe with a bigger size to be used for heavy impact. Not very popular for ornamental use due to its size, but popular among collectors who prefer to have a bit of a statement piece.
Battle Ready Axes – Fully Tang Axes or well fitted and firmly attached head for use not for show.
“Best” is actually a very relative term as each style has its individual tale to tell, whether it be for exhibition or for real use, or even for both.
How Much Should a Hand Forged Axe Cost?
The price will vary according to quality of steel, size of steel and the level of hand finishing the steel has received. A quality entry level hand made axe by a reputable smith usually ranges in the middle of the $130-$160 price range. Anything significantly less expensive is of interest, because it's a good indicator that the piece was mass-produced and not handcrafted.
Custom commissions, which are smiths creating something to your exact specifications, are going to be more expensive as it will require more labor and materials. A longer haft, a specific finish or engraving will cost more than a standard collection.
Caring for a High Carbon Steel Axe
There are not many steps required to own a high carbon steel axe, however, it does require some care.
After handling the blade, clean the blade surface to prevent the accumulation of oils or moisture from skin that can begin to rust the blade. A thin coat of mineral oil or gun oil on the head will prevent the head from being damaged between uses. Avoid storing the axe in damp conditions and consider keeping it in a sheath or edge guard over its bit. If you see haft loosening over time, this is perfectly normal for wood and is probably not a problem you will need to replace.
This does not take much time. An axe that is hand forged can be maintained for many years with a few minutes of work each month or two.
Are Hand Forged Axes Legal to Own in the USA?
In almost all cases, yes. Unlike restricted items, owning a hand forged axe for use or display is legal in the USA, while it is not restricted. However, there are some laws on carrying edged weapons in public, so if you're thinking about taking an axe out of your house, check the laws in your state and city before you do. There is no real problem if you collect it and have it on display or chop wood on your own land.
Axes as Gifts: What to Consider
It is a great gift for any history, outdoors or hand made enthusiast. When purchasing one for another person, don't rush and consider a few points before your purchase.
Big doors do not seem to have any size. A short handled axe is good for folks who want to hang on the shelf or mantle, a longer haft is for those who want to swing it. If you are unsure, an axe size of 20-24" is generally considered mid sized, which should be a good choice for a Viking axe.
Take into consideration if the recipient already gathers themed pieces as well. A person with a passion for Norse mythology may prefer to get an axe that is tied to a particular god or myth, such as Odin over a standard battle axe. Just a bit of research on what they already have goes a long way to selecting a piece that they'll actually display and not just put in a drawer.
Custom commissioning is one other solution that may be mentioned. Many smiths, including us, accept custom orders for length of haft or engraving or finish. It is more time consuming than purchasing off the shelf, however, makes the gift one of a kind.
Displaying Your Axe Correctly
After you have the hand-forged axe, how you display it will have an impact on how it looks and how long its service will last.
The blade is kept off moisture or dust collecting surfaces by a wall mount or wooden stand. Don't hang an axe near a window where it receives direct sunlight for longer periods as a wooden haft can dry-out and crack over time. When displaying several pieces, give them space, not a tight fit, to lessen the chance of accidental scratches on the steel.
If you do a rotation of pieces from time to time, a felt lined case is a worthwhile investment. It prevents rust from forming on the edge, and prevents humidity from attacking the steel, especially in salt air areas of the USA.
Common Mistakes First Time Axe Buyers Make
There are a few errors that keep recurring with the new collectors.
The largest of them is going for the cheapest without considering the type of steel or construction. Keep in mind, that a $40 axe online is rarely hand forged, despite the claims of the listing. Another common error is not paying attention to the haft material. Unfinished pine is not as good as hickory or ash, and is common in cheaper axes, where it is more easily split.
After care is another thing that people occasionally overlook when they're purchasing something. A high carbon steel axe should be oiled from time to time, and if you don't oil the axe for a month or more, you will see rust marks on the axe which will be difficult to remove subsequent. When you arrive with your axe, it helps to have had five minutes to get to know what it takes to keep it in good shape.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a battle axe and a hatchet?
A small single handed tool designed primarily for chopping wood. A battle axe is generally larger and more well-balanced for swinging, and historically, more catering towards combat than utility.
Is a bearded axe better than a standard Viking axe?
There is no right or wrong answer. The axe with the beard is more useful for tasks such as carving, it has more cutting surface and is versatile, whereas the standard Viking axe is lighter and quicker to swing. The decision which one to choose will rely on how it will be used.
Can you actually chop wood with a collector's axe?
A lot of hand crafted axes are designed to be used, not displayed. If cutting wood is important to you, be sure to find one that says battle ready or functional as some are only finished for display.
What steel is best for a forged axe?
The traditional and modern smiths have had a common preference for high carbon steel. It has edge holding properties and reacts well to heat treatment and yields a hard and tough blade.
How do I know if an axe is truly hand forged?
Check for a bit of texture or asymmetry in the head, for a solid, dense texture, and for documentation such as a Certificate of Authenticity. If the seller can explain the forging and heat treatment process, then he is likely to be the real deal.
Final Thoughts
A hand forged axe is more than a decoration. It is a straight path to a time when tools and weapons were handcrafted--one stroke at a time. If you're enticed by the Viking Age, high carbon steel construction or just a product that feels heavy in the hand, then a smith who is also a forger will make all the difference.
Every Smith's Blade axe head is hand forged, fire tempered and museum grade finished with a Certificate of Authenticity behind each head. Look through the complete Axes collection and select the one that fits in with your collection.
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